Cafeteria

Selected by

Chef and Owner of HERLEQUIN BIS

JUNICHI ITO

PROFILE

Born in Tokyo. Trained for eight years at L’écrin (Ginza), a fine dining establishment representing French cuisine in Japan, before traveling to Europe in 1988 to further hone his skills at Lucas Carton (Paris) and Enoteca Pinchiorri (Florence) and other renowned establishments.
Upon his return to Japan, he studied Japanese cuisine for three years at Aoyagi (Tokushima) before opening HERLEQUIN (Ebisu) in 1997. His culinary style is characterized by a foundation in French techniques that seamlessly incorporates Japanese ingredients that he learned during his study of Japanese cuisine and an Italian culinary perspective.
In 2006, he opened HERLEQUIN BIS (Yugawara), then relocated there himself to make the establishment his flagship restaurant. Ito is recognized as a pioneer in dining as regional revitalization. Leveraging his experience managing the Western-style eatery Kitchen by Ito Style in Yugawara, he draws on French culinary expertise to produce elevated cuisine for the SAPHIR ODORIKO menu.

A moment of complete relaxation—
making your journey even more memorable

The stunning coastline stretching from southern France, where I trained as a young chef, to Monaco has always reminded me of the scenery here in Izu. Each time I board the train in Odawara, look out over the blue waters from Nebukawa Station, then take in the scenery from Manazuru Cape to Atami, I am reminded of the breathtaking landscapes I knew in Europe, and the memories of my time there come rushing back.

When I was invited to oversee the menu for the SAPHIR ODORIKO, a train that travels along this beautiful coastline, I found myself reflecting on those memories, as well as the history and romance that have shaped this region since the Meiji and Taisho (1868–1926) eras. That inspired me to make yoshoku, Japan's distinctive style of Western-inspired cuisine, the theme for this menu.

Drawing on the French techniques I have honed over my career, I have subtly incorporated Japanese ingredients such as miso and black vinegar as hidden accents, creating flavors with added depth and the occasional unexpected twist.
This menu reflects my own culinary inspirations, but my goal was never for the food to steal your focus. The word restaurant comes from the Latin restaurare, meaning “to restore.” In keeping with that idea, I hope you can simply relax and enjoy the food as one element that shapes the atmosphere of your journey.

As you travel aboard this beautiful train, inspired by the blue sea and sky, I hope you'll take the time to enjoy every part of the experience—thinking about what to wear, who you'll share the journey with, and the conversations you'll have along the way. If these dishes can play even a small part in making the memories of your journey all the more vivid, I couldn't ask for anything more.

The Chef’s Inspiration

Finding seasonal inspiration in the nature of Yugawara

The bamboo groves of Yugawara first captured my heart because they reminded me of the natural beauty I admired during my years training in Europe. Time spent surrounded by rustling bamboo, gentle breezes, and dappled sunlight, reflecting on the richness of the land, is where each new dish begins.

How Italy expanded my approach to French cuisine

Seeking to broaden my understanding of French cuisine, I traveled to Florence during the rise of La Nuova Cucina Italiana (New Italian Cuisine). This essence, that I absorbed firsthand, continues to season my cooking today.

Finding inspiration in the literary greats of Izu

Thinking back to the great writers who once visited Izu, I chose yoshoku as the theme for this menu. Hidden touches of Japanese seasonings such as miso and black vinegar create flavors that are not only traditionally Japanese, but layered with unexpected depth.

Why food should play a supporting role

What will you wear? Who will you share the journey with? What conversations will you have? Such experiences are the true focus of your trip, so I hope these dishes can play a supporting role, helping to make those memories all the more vivid.

A refreshing dessert inspired by the blue sea and sky

The scenery beyond the train window recalls the landscapes of southern France where I once lived. I hope a refreshing dessert and a peaceful moment of relaxation will pair beautifully with these views.

Chef and Owner of HERLEQUIN BIS